Denmark. Home of Hamlet, Carlsberg beer and unusually attractive people. And starting on Monday, for the next ten days, home to the circus that is the Copenhagen Climate conference.

This being a conference all about how human activity is heating the planet, there has been a general reluctance to fly. Or rather, to be caught out flying. It’s a black mark for politicians and celebrities but for activists in Europe, it’s just not an option.

Listen to Marnie Chesterton's report.

No-fly zone
Busloads and bicycles are heading for the Danish capital at this very moment. At the weekend, Radio Netherlands Worldwide's environment programme, Earth Beat, hitched a lift on the climate express; 13 hours of carbon-neutral fun on a train packed with politicians, scientists, activists and fellow media freeloaders. 13 hours for us from Amsterdam; some have travelled much further.
 
Margriet from Norway had travelled by train from Kyoto, site of the previous climate protocol. This meant two solid weeks on assorted trains across Siberia. When I spoke to her, she seemed remarkably upbeat about this journey, confiding that her main worry was that she might smell a bit.

 
Eco-passengers
The tsunami of enviro-themed information welcomed us as soon as we boarded the train. Regular tannoy messages invited us "eco-passengers" to attend workshops on climate themes. Glossy (but recycled) pamphlets explained how to make my climate message count, and that the onboard catering was organic. Even the customised head-rest opposite me bore the message - “Copenhagen must deliver a fair, ambitious and binding climate deal.” Good to know.
 
The atmosphere on board was that of a school open day. In the carriage behind me, activists with felt-tip pens coloured-in hand-made posters that demanded an end to carbon emissions. Then they stuck them up on the train windows, creating a look reminiscent of a kindergarten classroom. There was even a magician, although I still haven’t worked out how he fits into the climate message…
 
Deal makers
But it’s not all child's play; there were important movers and shakers on the train. Like Jean Pascale van Ypersele from the IPCC. His organisation evaluates the scientific research which forms the basis for all the negotiations at the conference. Earth Beat asked him what he expects from the next couple of weeks:
 
“I think Copenhagen will bring us a very important agreement, (it’s) a very important step, much more important than Kyoto was, but at the same time the day it’s finished we can already think about the preparation about the next negotiation because it won’t be enough. We will need to continue the climate negotiations to go towards deeper reductions,  we need to go before the end of this century towards negative global emissions.”
 
The make-up of the train party is quite an accurate reflection of the players at Copenhagen over the coming days.
 
Negotiators and preachers
At the conference centre, a few kilometers out of the city centre, more than 100 heads of state and 20,000 delegates will meet to negotiate mind-boggling numbers. Billions of tons of carbon versus the billions of dollars potential climate measures will cost.
 
Outside the conference centre, and all over the Danish capital, those committed to the climate cause converge to preach their message to the converted, bemused locals and the rest of the world via the strong media presence.
 
After months of hype and expectation, the conference is finally underway. Will Christmas come early for those with hopes pinned on a strong deal? Or will it be all wrapping and no present? To find out, tune in to this week's edition of Earth Beat as of Wednesday evening.