Radio Netherlands Worldwide

SSO Login

More login possibilities:

Close
  • Facebook
  • Flickr
  • Twitter
  • Google
  • LinkedIn
Home
Saturday 26 May RNW - NEWS AND ANALYSIS FROM THE NETHERLANDS IN 10 LANGUAGES, WORLDWIDE 24/7 ON RADIO, TV AND ONLINE

'Little Meccas' prepare Indonesians for hajj

Published on 3 November 2011 - 5:59am
More about:

Even before arriving in Mecca for this year's hajj rites Indonesian housewife Irawati has felt the emotion of beholding the Kaaba, the cubic structure in Islam's holiest city towards which all Muslims face to pray.

Just days before leaving for Mecca the 30-year-old is finishing a mock hajj, part of a three-month training that tens of thousands of Indonesians complete every year in readiness for an annual pilgrimage that draws some two million Muslims from across the globe.

Every year as the hajj grows near, hundreds of Little Meccas sprout across Indonesia, from lifelike setups complete with a replica of the Kaaba, to simple arrangements of chairs and tables at hotels or mosques outside the larger cities or towns.

"I feel like I'm in Mecca already," Irawati said as she beheld the large Kaaba replica at her training site in east Jakarta, her voice breaking and eyes welling with tears.

"When I see the real thing I may just collapse and weep with joy," she added.

Pilgrims have been arriving in Mecca for weeks in anticipation of the rituals, which climax Saturday on Arafat, a hill outside Mecca.

The hajj is one of the five pillars of Islam, and a once-in-a-lifetime obligation for every able-bodied Muslim who can afford the journey.

Dalmi, a 55-year-old schoolteacher, said she and her fellow villagers also broke down in tears when they first saw a Kaaba replica while training in West Java.

"We gasped in awe and then we all cried. Many of us have spent years saving up. We sold our jewellery, land, goats and cows, everything," said Dalmi, who spent four years saving up the 31 million rupiah ($3,500) for the trip and the cost of the course.

"When we saw the Kaaba, we saw our big dream being realised," she added.

At a compound half the size of a football field, Irawati circled the mock Kaaba together with a dozen other would-be pilgrims, cries of "Subhanallah" (Glory to God) echoing in the air.

Other practice rites included the run between two hills, reenacting the search for water in the desert by Hagar, wife of the Prophet Abraham, for her son Ishmael, and the stoning of the devil.

Like other would-be pilgrims on the government-mandated course, they also watched videos on the hajj rituals, learnt Saudi laws and culture and executed simple exercises to stay fit.

"When you're in Mecca, remember not to push and shove or you may get crushed by big-sized Arabs," warned group leader Sharifah Alawiyah, 59, evoking laughter.

"I'm serious. Many have died in stampedes there, so don't rush," she added.

The hajj has in the past been fraught with perils such as deadly stampedes and fires. Hundreds died in a stampede in 2006.

For pilgrims who are often illiterate or who have never gone beyond their own villages, getting separated from their groups in the crushing crowds is another common hazard.

For the world's largest Muslim-majority country and top sender of more than 200,000 pilgrims a year, the training is crucial in preventing chaos and casualties in the holy land, officials say.

At the pilgrimage itself, Indonesian Muslims have earned a reputation for being among the most organised and orderly.

They wear stainless steel bracelets engraved with their identity details as well as identical batik uniforms, and all carry the same travel bags with a large photograph of the owner.

"Because we are handling so many pilgrims, it's important to keep them organised and orderly. Ninety percent of them are farmers and fishermen who have never travelled overseas or been on a plane," Religious Ministry official Muhaimin Luthfie told AFP.

Pilgrims say the training has made them more confident about performing the hajj correctly and safely.

"I made a few mistakes at first. When people climbed the hill, I walked down. But after doing this several times, I am an expert. I'm actually a hajji already -- a fake one," joked Yusuf, a 60-year-old farmer who like many Indonesians goes by a single name.

But trainers warned that despite their best efforts, nobody could guarantee a trouble-free hajj.

"When our pilgrims see people touching the Kaaba walls, they want to do the same," said Alawiyah, a trainer who has led more than 30 groups.

"The mood there makes everyone very excited. They forget everything we teach them here and then all hell breaks loose."

© ANP/AFP

Video highlights

Dutch beachcombers: a dying breed
Dutch beachcombers are a dying breed. In the past, objects would regularly...
Shell presented with "Oily Mary" cocktail from Niger Delta
Friends of the Earth Netherlands has offered "Oily Mary"...

RNW on Facebook

Sign up for our newsletters

Email news bulletin

What's on - Programme Preview

Press Review - of the leading Dutch newspapers every weekday

Media Network

Euro Hit 40 - Europe's No. 1 chart show

RNW - News and analysis from the Netherlands in 10 languages, worldwide 24/7 on radio, television and online