Eid al-Fitr, the Muslim holiday that marks the end of the Ramadan fast, is all about nice food, presents and visiting family. But not everyone breaking their fast in the Netherlands can be with their families.

By Freek Schravesande/NRC International

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Mercator Square in Amsterdam was bustling with activity on Sunday, men in neat suits were talking animatedly on their cell phones, families were ringing the doorbells of apartments, groups of girls in high spirits were headed downtown.

But Mustafa Birgul (40) sat on a bench by himself, waiting for a call from a friend. On the first day of the three-day celebrations after the Islamic month of fasting he missed his family more than ever.

"These are the hardest days of the year," Mr Birgul said. "My wife, family and three children live in Turkey. I wish I was able to visit them this Eid but as long as I don't have a residence permit, the immigration services won't let me go back."

In retrospect, Mr Birgul might have preferred to stay in Turkey altogether. "It was the right choice economically: I have a tailoring business. But what else have I got here? Nothing really. I work and I walk around. I would feel much stronger if my family were with me. I miss my seven- year old daughter most."

On the phone
So he spent part of the holiday on the phone with his family and was waiting to go for a drink with a friend.

Mr Birgul is not the only one who is alone during Eid. Around the Mercator Square area many coffee houses, cafés, cannabis-selling coffee shops, cafeterias and international call shops were full of Moroccan and Turkish men mostly, for whom it appeared to be an evening like any other.

In the Canan coffee house three groups of men were playing cards. The owner Haydar Sastim (41) had put some sweet treats on the counter and strangers shook hands. "But apart from that, it is business as usual," Sastim said.

Like Mr Birgul, he phoned his wife in Turkey, but he failed to get hold of her because the lines were busy. Millions of Turks all over Europe, especially in Germany, were trying to reach their families at the same time.

Not free in the Netherlands
Mr Sastim wished his wife were with him. He has been trying to get her into the country for a while now. "I got furious at the courts. My wife is not a criminal and I run my own business, I told them. But, alas, we are not really free here in the Netherlands, are we?", said Mr Sastim, who has lived in the Netherlands for over 20 years.

Life has been hard on him, he says. "The business has declined since they introduced paid parking until midnight here. The economy is depressed. And I miss my wife, along with the mountains, the sea, the park, the food. That's why I am considering moving back to Turkey, for good."

There were some Muslims who chose to be alone for part of the holiday. At the FEBO snack bar Cuneyit Karakest (24) and a friend were eating a hamburger.

"We have been surrounded by family since four in the morning. First we did the prayer with the men, while the women stayed home to prepare the food. Then we all ate together: olives, goat's cheese, tea, salads. And all these relatives came over."

When he was younger Karakest chose to run downtown with friends soon after breakfast. "A lot of young people still do that. But it ís a holy day. Plus, we are getting older."

But he still escaped for a minute to get what he missed most during Ramadan. "Fast food."