The eastern region of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) has long been associated with war. Yet tourism is taking off despite the conflict, as Mélanie Gouby finds out during a walk on the wild side in the Virunga National Park.

“It is one of the most wonderful sights. I didn’t feel in danger at all. Of course it is always a bit unusual to be accompanied by an armed guard, but that’s about the only downside”, rejoices Emmanuelle, a French tourist at the bottom of the Nyiragongo, which she has just climbed together with a group of friends. The Nyiragongo is the most active volcano in Africa.

Revive tourism
Although it is not listed in even the most detailed traveler guides as destination of choice, the Eastern DRC is nonetheless a place of many wonders waiting to be explored. With its volcanoes, mountain gorillas and magnificent landscapes, this central African region was truly blessed by nature. Its natural resources could have turned this lush garden into an Eden of prosperity, had it not been for the war. But the relative peace of the past few years has allowed the Virunga national park, a natural reserve in the Northern Kivu province, to develop some touristic activities.

“We are emerging from a period of war in the DRC during which there was no tourism. The entire economy was almost brought to a standstill during that period”, recounts Emmanuel de Mérode, the Park Manager.

The Virunga national park has been subsidized by the European Union (EU) for almost ten years. It is now trying to regain its financial autonomy.

“We have relied on various donors, especially the European Union, to maintain the park during the difficult times. The EU is currently subsidizing the reconstruction of the park but, for financial reasons, tourism is one of the keys to the survival of a park”, explains de Mérode.

The climbing of the Nyiragongo volcano, together with various safaris tours, have attracted 500 tourists in 2009, the year the park was reopened to the public, and around 2000 tourists in 2010. More than 4000 tourists are expected to visit the park in 2011.

Creating jobs
The protection of the environment is one the primary goals of this natural reserve, which is famous for its impressive mountain gorillas. The protection of these gorillas requires much effort and resources. But the large primates are not the only ones to benefit from the revival of tourism; the population too stands to gain. The long years of war have brought all economic activities in the region to a halt, in a country already devastated financially by the reign of Mobuto Sese Seko, one of its earlier rulers. Today, most of the Congolese population lives in poverty, with less than one dollar a day, and the unemployment rate is estimated at more 85%.

Recruited as a park ranger last August, Raymond Degomashaka earns 130 dollars per month. It is more than he was earning as a university lecturer. “There are many people who would like to work at the park. I am proud of my job”, he says.

Babo Dacarimasi, a 57-year-old man who has been working at the Virunga park for 27 years, agrees: “I have five children and I was able to pay for their studies thanks to my job here in the park. It is great that tourists are coming, they bring foreign currency. I would love to see tourism grow, that could really help us a lot”, he says.

Preserving the environment
However, the cohabitation with local populations is not always smooth and peaceful. The park’s mission to protect the environment often clashes with the survival instincts of poverty-stricken populations. The illegal exploitation of the park’s resources often leads to disputes that sometimes turn into violent confrontations.

“People need to be sensitized on the importance of preserving the environment”, says Christian Sharamu, who breeds bloodhounds that are later trained to track gorillas abducted by poachers.

While tourism may be an important economic activity in its own right, the park has other assets that Emmanuel de Mérode intends to develop.

“We have a pilot project in the north, on mount Ruwenzori, where we are currently building a power plant with the support of the EU. In this way, the rivers will also create jobs”, he explains.

Upon their completion, projects like these will offer better rewarding alternatives to poaching and deforestation.